Gladee and Flossie, Sept 6, 1966  |  The Hirtle Family

Gladee and Flossie, Sept 6, 1966 | The Hirtle Family

Gladee’s Canteen

According to Kevin Creaser, Gladee’s grandson, this article was written in 1978 for a local newspaper. Thanks to Kevin for sharing this colourful history of Gladee’s Canteen and the accompanying photos.

Flossie was the one who came up with the idea to open a small canteen on the beach. Just beyond the Hirtle homestead, where Flossie, Gladee, Paul and Cyril grew up, is one of Nova Scotia’s most spectacular combinations of sand, sky and water. The place is appropriately called Hirtle’s Beach. The family had managed the farm and Dad’s fishing, but Flossie thought a canteen might bring in some extra money. It might be fun too!

1951 was the year they built the small shack right on the sand. It had a flip up door and an overhanging roof for the customers who stood outside. They christened it The Seabreeze Canteen.


Gladee’s Canteen 1951

Gladee’s Parking Lot

Eliza, Bessie, Laura, Flossie, customer and Gladee

It all begins with an idea. There was no electricity then, so Paul and Gladee fried hot dogs and hamburgers on a two burner kerosene stove. They served them on rolls Gladee baked up at the house in her Lady Scotia wood range. For refrigeration they used the 18 inch thick chunks of ice they cut from Romkey’s Pond during the winter. Stored in sawdust, the ice stayed frozen during the summer season.

Paul made homemade root beer in recycled beer bottles, and it was a hit! He dragged wash tubs of cold sea water up from the water’s edge to keep the bottles chilled. Gladee remembers fondly how one of the “loafers” who hung around the canteen once leaned his chair back a bit too far. He found himself soaking in the root beer tub.

After a proper road was built and electricity found its way to The Seabreeze, things changed. The Lahave Dairy Truck could now make it down the road to deliver ice cream. Gladee started serving ice cream and homemade pies. And the outside world started beating a path to Hirtle’s Beach.

Gladee’s

Dinner at The Seabreeze

Dinner at The Seabreeze

In 1953, the Hirtles decided to expand not only the menu, but the building as well. They added on a dining room where people could eat inside, at long tables with benches. Gladee roasted chickens every day, and gained quite a reputation for her chicken burgers.

But the beach people really loved the French fries. On a busy day, the canteen would go through four, fifty pound pails of potatoes. John Hirtle, Gladee’s father, peeled all those potatoes, and fresh potato fries remained on the menu until he died at age ninety-seven.

Flossie says it wasn’t unusual to see two hundred people on the beach on a Sunday afternoon in those days. They stayed open until 1:30 am and Flossie and Gladee didn’t go to bed until 2 or 3 in the morning. But they loved it.

In the summer of 1962, a kitchen was added to the back of The Seabreeze. But on October 7 that year, nature reclaimed her beach. Hurricane Daisy blew in the end of the canteen. Undaunted, the Hirtles dragged what remained of the kitchen up and over the edge of the rock beach, to a more secure spot. They constructed a new building, named it Gladee’s Canteen, and it has remained relatively the same until the present.

Swept Away - Hurricane Daisy - October 7, 1962

Today Gladee and Cyril are in their late 70s. Paul has passed on and Flossie is eighty. But Gladee’s Canteen is still a going concern. Flossie bakes all the barley bread and rolls, but now her daughter Mary and husband Eric Creaser do most of the cooking. Their daughter Wendy waits on tables. Their son Kevin washes all the dishes by hand alongside his grandmother. Cyril sweeps up at night.

Gladee’s is a success today because of a new generation of good cooking. Eric, who is a mechanic in the winter, is fussy about the food he serves. The seafood must be fresh. The fish in the chowder must not be overcooked. The oil in the fryers must be changed often. All the haddock, scallops and lobsters used in the canteen are selected by Eric personally from National Sea Products in nearby Riverport.

Behind the canteen is a large garden, which the family grows to supply the canteen with fresh beans, broccoli and Swiss chard. The peas for Mary’s fresh pea soup are picked off the trellis heavy with Mammoth Melting Sugar variety, minutes before they are popped in the soup pot. All Mary’s soups are made from scratch using garden vegetables, beef and chicken. She also makes noodles for her chicken soup by hand with a rolling pin.

Every morning Eric and Mary roll out the pies together. On a busy weekend this could mean 25 pies. They make excellent fresh berry and rhubarb pies, but people come miles for the custard pies such as banana cream and coconut cream. Made with milk, butter and brown sugar, they are far superior to the commercial mix kind.

The tradition continues with Carole-Anne who worked at Gladee’s from 1966 to 1972 showing Barb how to bake Gladee’s Buns. That is Flossie at the very left.CLICK HERE FOR GLADEE’S PARKERHOUSE ROLL RECIPE

The tradition continues with Carole-Anne who worked at Gladee’s from 1966 to 1972 showing Barb how to bake Gladee’s Buns. That is Flossie at the very left.

CLICK HERE FOR GLADEE’S PARKERHOUSE ROLL RECIPE

To explain why the food is so good at Gladee’s, Eric says, “We don’t take shortcuts. We make it like we would make it for ourselves”. The recipes have evolved, he says with a chuckle, because “people complain about the food and we keep working at it!”

Flossie says Gladee was always too shy to come out of the kitchen to meet people. But not Flossie. She loved to chat up customers. And they appreciated her just as they appreciated the canteen. The Hirtles of remote Hirtle’s Beach had something special and people found them. Proudly displayed on a wall in the canteen is Flossie’s souvenir plate collection. They are presents from visitors to Gladee’s who have gone back home and sent her a memento from places like Massachusetts, Texas, Pittsburgh and Baddeck.

Recently Ken Creaser’s artwork has decorated the dining room. Grandmother Flossie is proud of his photographs, and fish carvings. But she especially likes the drawing he did for the placemat - an illustrated history of Gladee’s Canteen. It gives expression to 30 years of effort by a fine Nova Scotian family. Not only have they put a tremendous amount of hard work into their endeavour, they have also put their hearts into it.

 

Gladee’s Canteen placemat created and donated by Kevin Creaser of the Hirtle Family

Gladee’s Canteen placemat created and donated by Kevin Creaser of the Hirtle Family